Animal in Southern Headlights

This month’s issue of Garden & Gun reserved a spot for L.A.-based Animal, which is apparently owned and operated by two Florida boys. The article celebrated the far reach of Southern food, along with a redefining and elevation of traditions like rabbit, barbecue pork, and gravy. But the author had some similar critiques to mine, if not more diplomatically stated:

“…the restaurant is at once unwelcoming and deliriously seductive. So is the food. That night, Shook and Dotolo served a barnyard of offal and offal-derived dishes, including veal brains, veal sweetbreads, lamb necks, beef marrow bones, and Spam. If those various bites of livestock hadn’t been so good—so deftly balanced, so bright with acid, so well bolstered by the judicious use of green vegetables—they would have recalled stunt foods, the sort of dishes I order once, in the name of conquest, but to which I never return.”

Read the article here. See my review here.

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Animal in Southern Headlights

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